From the Heartland to the Winelands

OK I realise Rwanda isn't the image that comes to mind when you think of the term 'heartland', but it it is quite literally the heart of Africa. Nyungwe Rainforest, in the southwest of the country is considered to be the oldest rainforest on the continent and is the original water source for both the Congo and Nile Rivers. I had the opportunity to run through this beauty early last month, participating in an organised 10k put on by One Acre Fund. While quite a hilly course, I managed a 7.30 average mile, beating a personal record for that length. I should note that this was not an ordinary large scale run; there were no cheering spectators, no bibs or chips, and not even an entrance fee. However, it was fun in its simplicity. There is just something about going back to basics, running for the enjoyment of it, simply motivated by the serene surroundings. Rwanda may not have the pomp and circumstance that accompanies events and attractions back home, but what it does provide are incredible surroundings which provide all the personal contentment and momentum you could want. With this in mind, a group of us stayed in Cyangugu on the southern edge of Lake Kivu, before embarking on the six-hour drive back to Kigali the next day. It was fairly relaxed, drinking beers at our guest house on the lake, chatting about our experiences in Rwanda, all the while feeling very satisfied, fulfilled, and sore! The drive home, was equally as enjoyable, as the views of tiered farmland along the lake amounted to what I would consider to be among the most scenic routes I've ever driven. I often get jaded by long stretches of the same Kigali routine, but this weekend reminded me how remarkable Rwanda really is.

While I wax poetically about Rwanda, the real highlight of the past month was taking a 'bucket-list' trip to South Africa! A couple weeks ago I flew down to Cape Town..a long held dream destination. My high expectations did not disappoint. The city is quite large with loads of distinct neighbourhoods, flanked by Table Mountain on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. I spent the first couple days, walking around the city, eating delicious food, and soaking up the views. However the highlight was a 112m (370 ft) abseil or rappel down a portion of the face of Table Mountain. Leaning back with nothing but ropes supporting you from a 4,000 foot drop was quite exhilarating! Over the next couple days I rented a car to explore the greater region around Cape Town, including the Cape of Good Hope and Stellenbosch. The drive was really quite enjoyable with serene coastline and loads of cool smaller towns to stop at along the way. I also hiked around the actual cape itself, which is the most south-western point (or extreme edge) of the African continent. I was pinching myself thinking about this, given where I had been only a few weeks prior. While the coast was breathtaking, the true standout of my mini-road trip was a day spent on a wine tour in Stellenbosch. The town reminded me a lot of Sonoma or Napa, but with old dutch-inspired architecture, and gorgeous mountain views to boot. While a bit apprehensive about an organised wine tour, it turned out to be great fun. We explored three different wineries and had very thorough tastings at each one. The quality of wine obviously varied, but I was overall very impressed, and made sure to purchase a few bottles. The tastings even were accompanied with cheese platters and a very nice lunch After being deprived of wine and cheese for the past year in Rwanda, I was very much enjoying myself!

After spending five days in the Western Cape, I flew to Johannesburg to stay with some friends from Kigali. The first afternoon I visited the Apartheid Museum. I felt that I had a pretty good (albeit basic) understanding of South African history beforehand, but the museum really showed in depth the various complexities surrounding the awful racial segregation. Highlighting the underlying factors, the political narratives at the time, and the various movements at play, I was shocked the true extent of the Apartheid regime and the centuries of racial precursors that led up to it. Even more haunting is the extent to which the Apartheid legacy lives on. While on paper, equal opportunities now exist, with a strong focus on diversity, reality can paint a different picture. Much of Cape Town, for example, reminded me of Australia. Modern, beautiful, and wealthy. Yet only about 5 miles away lay vast townships, with thousands of ramshackle tin shacks packed together. Even more surprising was how segregated life is even in the city centres. Nicer restaurants and bars are predominantly filled with white patrons, yet with almost all black wait staff. Granted there were plenty of exceptions to this, and at times I was encouraged by the diversity that existed in various pockets, but overall the disparity still seemed stark.

While there is no great segue from talking about Apartheid, I will say that despite the vast social inequalities, I was blown away by the beauty of the country. After a day in Jo'burg, my friends and I took a road trip out to the Blyde River Canyon. The third deepest canyon in the world, it is also incredibly lush. With massive rock cliffs and dense green foliage along the sides, the canyon is located at the edge of the Drakenburg Mountain range. We spent the weekend hiking, exploring waterfalls, and snapping about a million pictures. Overall it was an absolutely awesome week. The trip exceeded my expectations; I consider myself extremely lucky to explore even a small fraction of this incredibly vast and diverse continent.