Making Volcanoes out of Molehills

It has been about a month since my last post, so I figured I would provide a bit of an update. I also have a feeling these posts will thin out in frequency as things get busier. I mentioned before that the whole process of settling in here is overwhelming, and that, to an extent, continues to be true. It’s not scary, intimidating or any of a number of similar descriptors, rather, it is just a continual process of adjusting to a new normal. Adapting to a new country, culture, job , and lifestyle, is a lot for anyone to take on, regardless or experience or circumstance. Don’t get me wrong, the job is continuing to go well, and I’m living a pretty comfortable ‘Western’ lifestyle, there is just an added complexity to living out here. The simple things in life, cease to be so simple. For example, one of my favourite things to do when I’m stressed is to go for a walk or run in the evening to blow off steam. While I will be moving to a more ‘expat-friendly’ neighborhood, I currently get a lot of stares, and a lot of honks from moto-taxis trying to pick up a fare, every time I step outside my compound. I always feel very safe, but I also feel like I am constantly on show. Something simple that I would take for granted anywhere else, has an added layer of complications here. Take another example, grocery shopping here is quite difficult. As most goods in Rwanda need to be imported, any given store will have a limited and expensive selection. Produce is quite good and cheap, and I can send the house manager to the market for items, but everything else requires a trip to two or three other supermarkets across town. A store might have an entire aisle dedicated to pasta, but won’t a have a singe jar of pasta sauce or even stewed tomatoes. My weekly shopping is a planned out, elongated adventure. I realise I sound quite spoiled to be complaining about these kind of things, but it nevertheless illustrates the seemingly simple aspects of life that require adjustment.

Up until about last week, I felt as if these ‘little things’ were getting under my skin a bit too much. ‘Death by a thousand paper cuts’, if you will. However, I now feel as things are starting to come together a bit more. An assemblance of normality through joining a gym, building a routine with work, and learning my way around the city have really helped. Things are also looking up on the social front. While my social network is still somewhat limited, I have fallen in with a fun group of people which has provided for a good outlet outside of work. The expat community here is quite transient however, as I already know people who are leaving this summer, so it will be important to continually expand my network.

On the professional front, work is going well, and I’m getting some great exposure to the industry. I am working on a tourism project with the World Bank and the Rwanda Development Board, advising on the implementation of new tourism legislation. Through various higher level meetings and research we are able to make a meaningful impact on the country’s most important industry. Through other projects as well, I have been able to personally hold meetings with directors at the city of Kigali, and many other professionals from the public and private sector. I have really appreciated getting 'thrown into the deep end', and having a certain level of autonomy and trust that goes with that.

Things are picking up outside of work as well. Most recently, I went with a group of friends to Volcanoes National Park. The park is part of the Virunga Volcanoes expanse straddling the borders of Rwanda, DR Congo, and Uganda. Its a beautifully lush mountainous area famous for the world’s only natural habitat of mountain gorillas. Since actual gorilla trekking is ridiculously expensive, we chose to hike the locally famed Mt Bisoke, a 12,000 foot volcano with a crater lake at the summit. After a hair raising drive out to the park on Friday in north east Rwanda (including taking a very wrong turn and barley avoiding a car sized hole in the road), we spent the night at a nice guest house near the trailhead. The hikes in the park are all guided by a park ranger and are accompanied by 4 fully armed Rwandan soldiers (due to wildlife and the immediate proximity to the DRC border). While we awoke to a gentle mist, the clouds truly unleashed their wrath as we began our hike. It was a steep, treacherous hike complete with pouring rain and thigh deep mud. While the rain did eventually stop, the fog remained, unfortunately blocking what is supposed to be an incredible view at the summit. Despite all this, it was a fun weekend getting out of Kigali, and served as a true adventure with some fun people.

While life is certainly more than highlights and trips to Volcanoes, I’m confident I will continually adjust to the new complexities of African life. Heck, I may even get used to being called a ‘muzungu’ by hoards of school kids. More importantly, I’m beginning to realize that while I may have foregone simplicity, I’m also being exposed to things I never would have back home. These posts serve as a personal reminder on how lucky I am to be out here, and the reason I’m doing what I’m doing.